ZINFANDEL

Zinfandel is a red grape that is made into a very rich and full-bodied wine. Flavors consist of blackberry, cassis, plum, and boysenberry with a briary character. The color is deep red with a purplish hue.

Due to the popularity of White Zinfandel, a good number of people assume that Red Zinfandel is also a sweet wine. Although it has extensive fruit and boldness, it does have a dry finish, with a hint of pepper. This wine pairs well with steak, hearty barbecue ribs, and red sauce dishes.

The Zinfandel grape is also used in making the White Zinfandel wine. Since all grape juice is white or clear, it is the skins that give the wine color. For White Zinfandel, the skins have contact with the fermentation process for a short time. This results in a blush color rather than a deep reddish, purple color that you get with a glass of red Zin. The other major difference is that the white version is lighter and sweeter. This is due to the short fermentation process. This leads to less alcohol and more residual sugar.

The origin of the Zinfandel grape has always been a little sketchy. George Gibbs originally brought the grape in the United States from Long Island. It is said that he brought it from Vienna. He took the vines to Boston where it was planted all over New England. This was probably sometime in the 1830s. By 1852, it made its way to California where it was planted and cultivated. In 1990, DNA tests were done and it was proved that what we call the Zinfandel grape is really the same grape as the Italian grape, Primitivo. It is also linked to the Palvac Mali, a grape vine of Croatia, where most now believe is the origin of the Zinfandel grape.

There are only a few countries other than the United States that produce this grape. Australia and South Africa are growing the Zinfandel grape which is helping to increase its production. For the most part, the majority of Zinfandel grapes are produced in California. There are many producers all over the California wine country, including Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino to mention a few.

You can also try this wine in one of its blended forms. It is often blended with other grapes such as Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. Whether blended or in its purest form, try this wine and I am sure that you will be pleasantly surprised with its full, deep, rich flavors.

Try this lighter cousin of Guinness; no need to wait till St. Patrick’s Day

Most visitors to Ireland consider a few pints of Guinness in a pub as an essential part of their trip. Next time you find yourself in an Emerald Isle pub, check out the Guinness tap’s neighbors. Chances are you’ll spot Smithwick’s Irish Ale, which is brewed in Kilkenny by a Guinness subsidiary.

It is our good fortune that this lighter cousin of Guinness, one of the best known brews on earth, is now available in the states. In fact, it’s featured right now at The Little Rooster, where it’s November’s beer of the month.

While Guinness is inky dark, dense and syrupy on the palate, Smithwick’s is quite the opposite. It’s amber red, translucent and quite smooth and drinkable. It produces a minimal head and little of the hop bite that you might expect.

I liked Smithwick’s in part because I find brews like this less filling, to borrow a phrase from an unforgettable advertising campaign for a forgettable beer. This ale is more like a slice of spice cake, versus Guinness’s chocolate mousse with whipped cream.

If you haven’t explored Irish ales, Smithwick’s would be a good place to start. And if you’re of a certain age and an experienced beer quaffer, you may feel like there’s nothing new that can be poured for you. Think again. Smithwick’s serves to remind us that there are endless subtleties in brewing. just as in winemaking. The brewer’s art is all about hints and whiffs and pleasant sensations that linger for just a moment, stirring a memory or evoking a friendly feeling.

So even if a trip to Ireland isn’t on your immediate agenda, stop by The Little Rooster and do the next best thing by enjoying a Smithwick’s, maybe while perusing Oscar Wilde or George Bernard Shaw, just to get into the spirit of the spirits.

‘Red’ chicken is easy, quick, delicious
 

If you’re drinking a reddish beer, why not go all the way and try this “red” chicken recipe that comes together in only about a half hour.

Red Chicken
(serves 4)
2 lb. skinless boneless chicken thighs, trimmed
1 cup water or chicken broth
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup sugar
3 tablespoons medium dry sherry
2 ¼ inch slices of ginger, smashed, or 1 teaspoon ginger paste
2 whole star anise
2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 teaspoons water
2 scallions, chopped

Bring chicken, water, soy sauce, sugar, sherry, ginger and star anise to a simmer, covered, in a 3 quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook until meat is tender, about 10 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a serving bowl and cover, keeping it warm.
Skim off any fat from sauce and soil sauce until it’s reduced by half, 15 minutes or so. Whisk cornstarch mixture into sauce. Boil, whisking, for about one minute. Discard ginger chunks and star anise.
Pour sauce over chicken and sprinkle with scallions.
Suggested accompaniments: steamed rice and broccoli rabe
Variations and tips: I prefer bone-in chicken thighs and I trim the skin off myself. Also, all soy sauce is not the same, varying greatly in saltiness and sweetness. It’s inexpensive enough that you can keep a few varieties around and do your own taste testing. The best place to find inexpensive soy sauce and spices like star anise is an Asian grocery, although these items are available in all supermarkets too.

Did you know?

Wine is typically stored on its side to keep the product in contact with the cork. But beer does better standing up in the back of the refrigerator, rather than in the door, so it stays at a more uniform temperature and doesn’t get agitated every time the door opens.

-- Scott Brinckerhoff

Scott Brinckerhoff of Haddam is a freelance writer specializing in business communications. He also brews beer, keeps bees and cooks "seriously." Each issue, he'll provide offbeat comments on our monthly beer, long with a recipe.