PINOT NOIR

Pinot Noir is a black grape that originated in Burgundy, France. This grape is temperamental and fragile to grow. It is best grown in cool climates so it does not mature too quickly. If it is grown in areas too hot, this would destroy its acidity and aromas which would in turn, offset the balance of this wine. This wine also picks up some of its flavors from the soil in which it is grown. It is also best for this grape to be grown in soil containing limestone. Some of the famous areas in Burgundy where this wine is grown are Cote d’Or,Cote Chalonnaise, and Mercurey. This grape is rarely blended in these areas. One of the biggest areas this grape is grown in is Champagne where it is one of the three grapes blended to make Champagne.

This wine is also grown in many other countries, where the same care must be given for this grape to produce a flavorful yet delicate wine. Australia, South Africa, and New Zealand are just a few of the countries that are having great success with this grape.

In the United States there are a handful of states that produce Pinot Noir. One of the biggest, of course, is California. Here it is grown mostly on the North Coast. Another state that produces excellent Pinot Noir is Oregon with its cool climates. This presents perfect growing conditions for this grape particularly in the Willamette Valley. These wines are very much like the French style Pinot Noir.

Due to the difficulties in cultivating this wine, it tends to be more expensive than other varietals such as Merlot and Syrah. However, with its soft tannins and acidity this light body red has intense flavor making it a wine worth its price. Being that it is lighter in body and less tannic than Cabernet, this wine pairs well with lighter meat dishes, pork,roasts, and turkey to name a few. This would be an excellent choice for your Thanksgiving meal!!

Harvest Ale, another winner from Long Trail Brewing

Sometimes you taste a beer that’s hard to categorize, and that’s the case with The Little Rooster’s November Beer of the Month, Harvest Ale. It’s another winner from our friends at Long Trail Brewing Co. in Vermont.

Harvest Ale is only available in the weeks on either side of Thanksgiving. It’s a deep reddish brown color that’s much lighter in taste than it looks. Incredibly, it’s made with 17 different malt and hops varieties, compared to the two or three in many brews. I think once a year the brew master enjoys kicking back a little and having some fun with an offbeat concoction.

I liked the feel of Harvest in my mouth. It’s more sweet than bitter and has pleasant floral overtones. It might go well with turkey, and I’d suggest serving it cool rather than cold to allow the aroma to develop.

Halfway into my test drive longneck, I figured out what it reminded me of: one of my own early batches of home brew. Lest this sounds like a negative comment, it isn’t. My early batches, as many guests could testify, were far superior to later efforts, for reasons that have never been clear to me.

For a brewery that’s only been around since 1989, Long Trail cranks out some memorable beers whose popularity continues to increase. Reading their promotional material, I get the impression that they take what they do seriously … but not so seriously that they can’t have a bit of fun along the way. After all, that’s what beer is for, isn’t it?

Long Trail also conducts its business in keeping with the Vermont concern for the environment. Spent grain used in brewing is recycled through local dairy cows. I’ll have to try the milk next time I’m up that way.

People either like lamb or they don’t. If you do, the following recipe is perfect for a cool night, accompanied by a side dish of horseradish mashed potatoes and boiled carrots with parsley butter. If you don’t like lamb, try the recipe anyway. You may change your mind.

Braised lamb shanks with caramelized onions and shallots

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound onions, sliced
3 large shallots, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
6 lamb shanks, about 1 lb. each
all purpose flour
2 ½ cups dry red wine
2 ½ cups canned beef broth
1 ½ tablespoons tomato paste
2 bay leaves

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy large Dutch oven over medium high heat. Sauté sliced onions and shallots until brown. Mix in 2 tablespoons chopped rosemary and remove from heat.

Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper; dust with flour. In a heavy skillet, brown the shanks in batches in the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, turning them with tongs. Transfer shanks to a plate. Add 1 cup red wine to the same skillet, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to a boil. Pour into Dutch oven with the onion mixture. Add remaining 1 ½ cups red wine, canned beef broth, tomato paste and 2 bay leaves. Bring to boil, stirring to dissolve tomato paste. Add lamb shanks, turning to coat them with the liquid. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and cook for about 1 ½ hours or until fork tender.

Serve in a large bowl with mashed potatoes and carrots or other vegetables. A piece of baguette, butter and a Harvest Ale, and you’re there.

Did you know?

History tells us that the first Thanksgiving, in 1621, occurred when the Pilgrims of Plymouth, Mass. invited local Indians to share their table. What is less widely known is one of the reasons why the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth in the first place. According to a journal kept by a passenger aboard the Mayflower, the Pilgrims elected to land at Plymouth because, "we could not now take time for further search or consideration, our victuals being much spent, especially our Beere."

-- Scott Brinckerhoff

Scott Brinckerhoff of Haddam is a freelance writer specializing in business communications. He also brews beer, keeps bees and cooks "seriously." Each issue, he'll provide offbeat comments on our monthly beer, long with a recipe.