RESERVE WINES

Many people see the word “Reserve” on wine labels, but what does it actually mean? Your first reaction would be, this must be a very special high quality wine. Perhaps one of the best of the winery, but this is not always the case. Different countries have different rules. The American term reserve is used in many wineries in their bottling, such as Vintners Reserve, Private Reserve, Estate Reserve, and Proprietors Reserve. There are no specific regulations for these American wines, although some wineries save this title for there premier wines, which they age longer and come from premiere grapes of a particular vintage.

In Spain, the term “Reserva” is used with red wines that are aged for at least 2 years in cask and bottle, of which one-year must be in cask. For white wines that are labeled Reserva, it must spend at least 6 months in oak, including being aged for a total of 2 years in cask and bottle. The Spanish red wines that are aged for at least 2 years in oak and a minimum of 3 years in the bottle before their release are labeled Gran Reserva. These wines are usually picked from an outstanding vintage. The white wines must be aged at least 6 months in oak and 4 years in cask and bottle to proclaim the status of Gran Reserva.

In Italy the term used is “Riserva”. These wines must have ½ to 1 percent higher alcohol levels than the same wines that are not Riservas. These wines, although not necessarily aged in oak for a length of time, must be aged for a longer period before they are released. Unlike the Spanish wines, there are no qualifications of how long it has to be aged to be considered Riserva. Unfortunately, with this less strict format, it leaves room for producers to call wines Riserva and then to get a higher price.

In France, the term used is “Reserve” and there are really no controls over the use of this label. However, in champagne, reserve wines are specifically set aside for blending only and usually to produce a non-vintage cuvee.

Try experimenting with these wines. The best way would be to compare a Reserve with a non-reserve wine. A correct comparison would be to use the same vintage and the same varietal from the particular vineyard you are sampling.

Hobgoblin Ale arrives in time for Halloween

In my dozen or so trips over the years to the United Kingdom, I will never understand how I missed Hobgoblin ale. It’s reported to be the most stocked beer in British supermarkets, a favorite in pubs around the countryside, and the fifth biggest selling bottled ale in the country. But somehow I missed it, despite my ardent support of numerous other brews.

In any case, no matter. The Little Rooster has designated Hobgoblin Ale its Beer of the Month. To be sure, it’s an appropriate choice for October and Halloween. Be careful, though, the label may frighten children.

Hobgoblin is a full-bodied, copper colored brew that packs a bit more punch than your average ale. It is moderately bitter and carries a slight fruity aftertaste that reminds me of a Belgian lambic. It is less carbonated than typical American brews, in the tradition of real British ales. Hobgoblin would be a fine choice for cocktail hour, accompanied by a British stilton and crackers and some apple or pear slices.

Hobgoblin is a product of Wychwood Brewing, which started in 1983 as a one-man band, producing 8 to 10 barrels per week. Now they’re at 30,000 and counting.

Give Hobgoblin a try. Not that many British ales are exported to the United States, so when one with this reputation arrives here, seasoned beer drinkers owe it to themselves to enjoy a glass.

Pumpkin works well in kitchens, not just outside the front door

Visiting the Turks and Caicos earlier this year, I encountered a number of Caribbean variations on familiar culinary themes. I noticed that pumpkin was a familiar staple of each night’s buffet line and I resolved to imitate some of what the islanders did so well.

Here, then, in honor of Halloween, are two easy recipes that involve the pumpkin in all its orange glory.

Baked pumpkin, Turks style

1 small pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into 8 or 10 wedges
¼ stick of butter
¼ cup brown sugar
½ tsp. each of cinnamon, nutmeg and a dash of ground cloves
chicken broth
salt and pepper
dark rum (optional)

Spicy pumpkin and black bean soup

1 tbsp. olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium yellow onion, minced
1 cup diced red pepper
1 cup diced green pepper
1 ½ tsp. ground cumin
½ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ a jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely minced (wear rubber gloves when handling these little devils, or use ½ - 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes)
6-7 cups chicken broth, canned is fine
2 15 oz. cans solid pack pumpkin
1 ½ cups cooked black beans or canned black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed and drained
¼ cup sour cream
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

In a large saucepan, cook garlic, onion, red and green pepper over medium high heat until tender. Add spices and jalapeno and cook for about another minute, for a total of about 7 minutes.

Meanwhile, lightly pulse, (3 times or so) half the beans in a food processer. This will help thicken the soup. Add this, along with the whole beans, pumpkin and chicken broth to the spices and stir well. Bring the soup just to a boil, and then reduce to low. Stir in the drained corn, and a bit more broth if the soup is too thick and taste for seasoning. Pour into bowls or mugs, add a dollop of sour cream to each, and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro.


Did you know?

The Internet has become an incredible resource for beer enthusiasts. There are endless links to brewers, brew clubs, how-to guides and just about everything short of a beer tap coming out the side of your computer. Best of all, it’s all free.

To launch yourself into the world of “cybeer,” try a Google search using the terms beer, brewing or some other relevant term. You will be amazed by just how much information is available. Be aware that unlike good beers, all this information is unfiltered.

-- Scott Brinckerhoff

Scott Brinckerhoff of Haddam is a freelance writer specializing in business communications. He also brews beer, keeps bees and cooks "seriously." Each issue, he'll provide offbeat comments on our monthly beer, long with a recipe.