Syrah/Shiraz

Syrah is a black grape that produces a full rich, spicy red wine. The origin of the wine was recently discovered to be a direct descendant of the vine family Vitis Allobrogia from the Rhone area in France. Originally, experts believed its origin to be from the Shiraz of Ancient Persia or Syracuse of Sicily. One thing is now known for sure - this grape has been grown and produced in Rhone for over a century.

In Rhone, some of the best reds, which are full and rich with enough tannins to last for several years, are produced from the areas of Hermitage and Cote du Rhone. Also of popularity are Chateauneuf Du Pape and Cote du Rhone, which are blended with Grenache and other grapes, depending on the area from which they are harvested. In Province, they do a great deal of blending Syrah with Cabernet Sauvignon.

In California, this grape is grown mostly in Mendocino and Sonoma. Due to the warm climates this grape thrives on, it is limited as to where it can grow in California. Syrah is developed as a medium bodied wine with a slight peppery finish. It is also blended with Cabernet and Zinfandel to bring forth a rich full-bodied red.

Australia produces a very different style of this wine. It partakes of richer, jammier fruits that seem to have a sweeter and less tannic edge with a decreased spicy and peppery finish than its counter parts from the Rhone area and California. Also, the name of the grape is pronounced and spelled differently. Shiraz is the Australian and South African name for the same wine. Due to its popularity, the Americans, and even some of the French, are using this spelling to sell more of their Syrahs. However it is spelled, it is from the same grape. One of Australia's top wines is Penfold’s Grange, which is made of 100 % Shiraz. This wine has intense, rich fruit with extensive and well-balanced flavor, which ages well for many years in the bottle. The Australians also blend their Shiraz - mostly with Cabernet.

South Africa also produces Shiraz, although its popularity has just started to reach the United States. They also blend their Shiraz with Cabernet, Cinsault and Pinotage.

Syrah/Shiraz is a full, robust red wine to have either by itself or blended with other grapes. It pairs well with hearty beef dishes, any barbecue dishes, and red sauces. One other thing to mention is the smaller grape, Petite Syrah. Although thought to be a relation to another name for Syrah, it is in fact an entirely different grape.

The popularity of Shiraz/Syrah is still growing. Have fun enjoying and comparing this wine in its many different styles from the different countries.

Harvard educated beer
Harpoon Octoberfest makes the grade

Harvard is known for being the oldest institution of learning in the United States and one of the most prestigious. Diplomas from its law, business and medical schools adorn the walls of some of the nation’s most successful professionals. And every so often, a Harvard education can lead to success in a more offbeat field, such as brewing.

The Harpoon Brewery in Boston and Windsor, VT, was started by three Harvard classmates who figured out a way to turn their love for beer into a profitable business.

The Rooster beer of the month for September is Harpoon Octoberfest, a seasonal brew that arrives as the leaves are beginning to turn and disappears when the snow starts to fall. Don’t miss this beer; it’s a treat worth stocking up on.

Octoberfest is blended from six malts and takes longer to brew than any of the half dozen other Harpoon beers. It’s smooth in texture, reddish in color and with a nutty, sweet afterblush. I enjoyed one the other night with a grilled sirloin, first sniffing and then sipping. It has a pleasant floral aroma that invites further inspection by other senses.

Congratulations to Harpoon for proving that a large and growing specialty beer producer does not need to give up their traditional excellence in favor of mass marketing bland brews.

A seasonal treat: uncooked tomato sauce


Like Octoberfest beer, tomatoes are a seasonal treat. Even though they are available year round, there’s nothing like a quality ripe tomato in the fading days of summer. This month’s recipe pays tribute to the tomato and its best friend, garlic.

Pasta with Uncooked Tomato Sauce

3 extra large or six medium tomatoes, about 2 ½ pounds
4 large whole cloves of garlic, peeled but left whole
1 small hot red or green chili, or about ½ tsp. red pepper flakes
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
½ cup olive oil
1 lb. penne or other tubular pasta
¼ lb. fontina or muenster cheese, grated
½ cup grated parmesan or pecorino cheese


Wash and wipe the tomatoes. Core them and chop until you have about six cups. Put into a large bowl. Add garlic, chopped chili, salt, pepper and olive oil. Let stand at room temperature several hours or chill overnight, but allow to return to room temperature before serving.

Cook penne according to package directions. Spoon off some of the surface oil from the tomatoes and toss it with the penne and the parmesan. Add in the fontina and toss it with the sauce. The fontina will melt slightly and the pasta will warm the sauce just enough.

This dish is absolutely delicious and it comes together easily. Watch out for the whole garlic cloves, but if you happen to chew into one, make sure your dining partner does too.

Did you know?

A 12 oz. beer has fewer calories than two slices of bread and contains no fat. And now, followers of the Atkins diet can find low carbohydrate beers that contain a fraction of the carbs of regular beer. They are not as complex or interesting tastewise as a typical Rooster beer of the month, but for those who enjoy several beers a day, they can certainly help cut carbs and calories.

-- Scott Brinckerhoff

Scott Brinckerhoff of Haddam is a freelance writer specializing in business communications. He also brews beer, keeps bees and cooks "seriously." Each issue, he'll provide offbeat comments on our monthly beer, along with a recipe.